Visit the Sanctuary of San Lázaro

The church was designed with three naves, each with its own entrance to accommodate worshippers and visitors alike. Elevated above the main hall is a small bell with a clock - a habitual characteristic of Cuban temples. Its interior, however, dons an eclectic look with a predominant Baroque Colonial style. Other defining architectural elements are the neo-gothic, neoclassical, and romantic additions that adorn the altars and surrounding designs.

Once inside, during holy mass, television sets and speakers are seen mounted on various columns to project the words of each song for sing-alongs - allowing the priest’s message to get through clearly.

A large dome with a cross rises high above the central altar, where you’ll find the image of Saint Lazarus with other revered saints in Cuba, like the Virgen del Cobre and the Virgen de Regla. Finally, in the principal chapel, followers can visit the most adored statue of San Lázaro Milagroso (the miraculous Saint Lazarus).

It’s fascinating how the religious syncretism in Cuba has fused Catholic saints with the deities of the African Yoruba religion. Apart from Saint Lazarus, Saint Lazarus “the Beggar,” and Babalú Ayé - an Orisha or Spirit that cures diseases of the skin - are also venerated in the temple. With this dynamic mixture, not only does the church attract Catholics but also followers of different religions like Santería, who are searching for blessings.

The Santuario Nacional de San Lázaro receives plenty of visitors all year round, but come December, that number increases exponentially. Cubans from every province converge at this far-off temple to ask for help and give offerings to the saint - and every 17th of December - the town of El Rincon is flooded with believers for the Day of San Lázaro.

Visitors leave quite an impression, as many are seen walking on their knees all the way to the altar, others chain themselves to large stones which they drag to the temple, and mothers crawl on their hands and knees with children on their backs. As a practice passed down from their ancestors, followers tend to believe that suffering and punishment equate to payment or offering to the saint for their requests.

Other details in plain sight are the presence of the color purple - found on candles, clothing, and merchandise - and people wearing jute sack attire, two important elements pertaining to Lazarus. Little statuettes of the saint are everywhere - they’re brought in boxes, in people’s hands, and placed on the floor surrounded by bills and coins.

Many devotees arrive at the altar, light a candle, and begin to pray. In their eyes is a genuine gaze of appreciation, praise, and admiration for San Lázaro - a connection challenging to explain but completely perceivable.

If you’re looking to visit the Sanctuary and take your time to view every detail, plus get a little extra history behind the church’s past, any month except December would be ideal. This way, you can check out a nearby museum called Capilla de Los Exvotos, visit the Fuente Milagrosa (miraculous fountain) - said to have healing properties - and get to know the local workers that contribute to the temple’s legacy.

Written by Javier Montenegro.

Published November 2022.